Day 33 Miles 444-456 April 15, 2017

 

Today was a really really great day. I woke up in an exceptionally sparkly mood. We had a bunch of little adventures spread throughout our ten mile hike into Agua Dulce. The trail runs right through the town. Fortunately, this is the only time we have walked on a paved road through a town as part of the trail. We left the KOA and said see you later to Woodard, Galpal and Rockdoc. Hurricane left before we even woke up. He was really quiet. Never heard him pack up. We had to go through a drainage tunnel under the highway at one point. It offered good shade for a break at the end of it. I had rinsed some of my clothes in the sink at the KOA and still needed to dry a few so this was as good a time as any to throw them in the sun.

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Right before the tunnel we saw some strange clay sculptures in a grouping on the side of the trail. Rob thought it marked a dog grave, but then we saw another grouping of the same sculptures in the Vazquez Rocks area.

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Strange, but I like it! The rock formations in the Vazquez Rock area were really spectacular. We used it as a backdrop for some Gizzie photos.

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When we approached the main park area we noticed a lot of people milling around so we walked over to see what was going on. We were pretty shocked when we saw there was a band set up, people walking around in costumes and what appeared to be some sort of play. After standing there and looking around at what seemed like a strange scene to stumble upon we realized it’s Easter weekend! We spoke with someone handing out flyers and confirmed that it was indeed an Easter play. Apparently they do a Saturday show that gets about 800 people and a second show Sunday morning at dawn that Is standing room only. Having these huge rocks as the backdrop to their play is pretty unique. I thought a play at 2p in the blazing heat with no shade seemed a little odd as far timing, but the place was packed. From there we went to the information center and looked around at some of the history. Many many movies have been filmed at Vazquez Rocks – planet of the apes, Star Trek, lots of westerns. We also saw our first rattlesnake…in a cage at the center. We know they are around us because people have warned us on trail that there is one around a bend etc, but we have yet to see one ourselves. We got a good laugh out of finally seeing one under those circumstances. From there the trail ran directly through town passing the grocery store and a cafe. We opted to do the cafe and get a salad which we later regretted. They were having some chef crisis and it took 30 minutes to get a salad – with nothing cooked on it. Totally ridiculous. Even more so cause we were trying to eat fast and get to the wineries before they closed at 5. We didn’t even know this town had wineries until we saw a sign advertising one 30 minutes before, but it was pretty clear we were going. When we finally got our food and got out of the cafe we made a beeline for the Agua Dulce Winery. It was terrible. The wine had so much sediment in it and had a very strong alcohol taste. Worst wine tasting ever. We actually gave our red wine back it was so gross. Best part of that place was a guy we met who was in awe of our doing the hike and said he wanted to hike the PCT one day too. We hoofed it down the street a half mile to get to the other winery in hopes it would be better. Thankfully, it was! Not world class wines, but drinkable at least. We had a nice chat about our hike with a woman who lives in the area. On our way out we met another woman who was also applauding us for our hike. Rob is always really careful to say we “made” the time, not “took” the time for the hike. We planned a lot. We ran into so many people today who just loved the fact that we set out to do this. Some say we are their hero. It’s kind of crazy but I guess we made an out of the box move and people recognize it. We were a little tipsy by the time we were done at the second winery and had to decide what to do for the night. Hiker Heaven is a trail angels house a few miles from where we were. It’s supposed to be great. Almost everyone goes there and hangs out, sleeps, does laundry and just generally commiserates. Rob had another plan though. We bought a bottle of wine and then sneakily camped under some trees by the road overlooking the vineyard. It was a great way to end the day.

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Making dinner in our sneaky campspot

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After a little wine…

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We love these white butterflies with orange tips. We see them all the time in the desert

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I made a bouquet that I wore in my pack today

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Walking through tall grass

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Day 32 Jackson Flat to Acton April 14, 2017

We got up early because we knew the day’s itinerary would be a game of hop-scotch. I had drawn up a semi-elaborate plan to bypass the ice on Mt. Baden Powell, rejoin the trail, take a little hitch around a new fire closure and also loop around a 4 mile endangered frog closure. We started down from the top of the mountain about 2 1/2 miles to my first target area. We were immediately thwarted and my plan out the window when the regular road portion of Hwy 2 was closed due to ice. Using this stretch of Hwy 2 was to be 2 legs of my plan today. One to hike and one to hitch. I noticed a man in his car with a defeated look on his face, furiously looking through maps, likely going through the same thought process I was. “Well… What now??” I introduced myself and, sure enough, he was taking a driving tour of the mountains and now stuck not wanting to backtrack the same way he came in. With the GPS on my phone, I helped show him a desert mountain reroute that might help us both. His name was Collin and he was from the UK. He was up for the plan and dropped us along the highway near Acton. A little local bar provided cheap beer and a cheeseburger while we reset our plans. I really didn’t want to miss the hike up Baden Powell but we are just too early in the season. There were 2 rescues there just in the last few days so we just couldn’t take the risk. We will definitely come back later in the year to spend 2 days on the mountain. We made our way to the KOA campground to spend the night. It is also exactly where the fire closure ends and where we wanted to get back on the trail at the end of my original plan. The KOA was also the home for the night of Hurricane who is from New Zealand and the trio of Woodrat, Galpal and RockDoc. It was a good hot shower for us and a chance to grill for dinner. Lace scored some expensive freeze dried meals from the hiker box for dinners this next week and the KOA has a little store that had a dozen kinds of Hagen Das ice cream which we both indulged in our tent before going to sleep.
Speaking of tents. Ultralight. Ultralight. It’s the way to go. We love ours but didn’t know if a floor space of 50″ x 80″ was going to be too tight for us or not so much. As it turns out, our mattress pads are 25″ wide so they perfectly fill the floor with no cold ground spots. Our tent is basically just a fancy mosquito net attached to a thin floor. It’s zero privacy but the stars n moon view we get every night is worth it. We have only used the rainfly 4 nights of 32. We also picked a model that had 2 side doors. This way we can each get in and out of the tent without disturbing the other. So far it has worked out great. If you’re buying a tent for backpacking, I’d firmly nudge you toward the lightest smallest tent you can afford. A very small footprint also helps you set up in little niche flat spots along the twisty and steep mountain trails like on the PCT. With an added ground cloth, 4 sand spikes, 4 nail spikes and a little extra tie down cord, we still come in under 2 pounds. It’s so very worth the extra dollars to me to carry a pound or two less in base weight.

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That burger was good!

Day 35 Miles 471 – 478 April 17, 2017

Before we were even out of our sleeping bags we heard Rockdoc, Woodrat and Galpal coming around the mountain. We said good morning and they came into the little hollow on the side of the trail where we set up camp last night. We chatted a bit and said we would catch up with them later today at the Andersen’s house.

Hiker registry

Not sure what this is on trail

Signing the registry – one of my favorite things to do!

Stopping on trail for a bite to eat while enjoying the view on the way to the Andersen’s


They are another very popular trail angel 7 miles from where we started this morning. They have been hosting people for 18 years!! We passed Larry again on trail and made it to the Andersens by 1pm with beer and Oreos to share. Hurricane had arrived last night and since he is leaving to begin the Continental Divide Trail on Wednesday he is staying here until then. The Andersen’s have a backyard that stretches far back and is filled with probably 50 little campsites tucked into corners and under manzanita. Rocks hand painted by hikers over the years were placed all through out the property. Terri and Joe welcome stinky hikers (and believe me, I feel like I’m at my smelliest right now) into their home during hiker season. They are still just getting set up now since we are still early in the crowd. We set up camp, passed the afternoon all hanging out in the backyard and were later welcomed with a big embrace from Terri herself.

Rockdoc, Galpal and Woodrat hanging at the Andersen’s


We all shared a hearty and delicious dinner of rice, baked beans, coleslaw and BBQ. Daddie Gizmo is feeling the hiker hunger recently. He had 3 plates of food. The Andersen’s, aka Casa De Luna, is known for being a party house and getting crowds of 50-60 hikers staying there in a night and it’s easy to get sucked in and stay longer. Hurricane said he was there 5 nights when he hiked the PCT in 2010 and there is another story of someone staying 5 weeks! Terri had some great stories to share from over the years. The six of us, however, were in our tents nice and early. 

Trail marker

Day 31 0 Day in Jackson Flat April 13, 2017

Morning by Rob (Daddie Gizmo)

We woke up today in the clouds. Physically and mentally. We had this whole beautiful mountain top camping area to ourselves and, as the sunrise began, I realized I could see the trees 10 ft away from me but not the ones 25 ft away. The clouds were moving so very fast through our campsite and the meadow beside us. I’m sure I’ve never really seen clouds move past me in front of my eyes as fast as a little bird could fly before. We both rolled over n slept in some more. I was craving some coffee an hour later so we got up and I started a new fire. We had a great hikers breakfast of cake and hotdogs. The sun was trying to peek through the clouds but the fire in the big fire ring was good enough to keep us plenty warm. It didn’t take us long to talk about staying here for the rest of the day. We decided that we could slack pack a mile away and back for more water so we could cook dinner, make hot chocolate and have plenty for our leg out tomorrow. We need to move at a certain pace to complete the PCT before early winter starts in Washington state but we have also decided that we wouldn’t pass up a beautiful camp site even if it didn’t meet our miles goal for the day or use our newfound freedom to soak in all that nature has when we have a place like this one to enjoy. I’m 5 chapters into a Tom Clancy novel and Lace is napping beside me. The fire is low enough to stay alive but not need tending for awhile. Little Woodpeckers and Finches are chasing each other all around as the sun goes in and out of the clouds now. Maybe I’ll nap too.

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Rob enjoying his coffee

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Thanks S&K for the coffee!

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Evening by Lacy

Today was the first real nap I have taken since we began this adventure. Granted I have layed under a thimble of shade in the desert and passed out from shear exhaustion in the middle of the day from the sun, but that does not compare to the divine two hour nap I had smushed up in my sleeping bag.  I feel asleep to the sound of the wind in the trees and slept hard. When I woke about 2:30 it was clear that the surrounding clouds had settled into our campsite. We walked a mile back on the trail to get some more water and by the time we came back we had just enough time to enjoy another fire and dinner before the rain started.  Rob read more and I feel asleep early to the sounds of rain and wind. It was delightful. This was my favorite zero day so far because it was so relaxed and we literally hung out in a cloud.

Day 30 Miles 369.4 – 372 (Nero in Wrightwood) April 12, 2017

Well, we did it – 30 days! Of those 30, we have hiked at least a little bit 27 of them!IMG_5576

We loved waking up in a smushy bed this morning and were completely relaxed knowing we weren’t going to leave town until this afternoon.  In Cajon we had forgotten our Luci Light (inflatable camp light we like in the tent) in the Best Western and when I called, the lady I spoke with said she would be in Wrightwood today getting her hair done.  Perfect – we would relax until 2:30 when we would meet her. After enjoying the comfortable guest bed this morning that Rich offered us we got coffee and breakfast, walked around town, signed the hiker registry and got our PCT pins before heading back to Rich’s to game plan our next segment and pack up.  We hitched a ride back to Inspiration Point and only planned on going 2 miles up from the trailhead that intersects the PCT so that we could camp and and get a fresh start tomorrow morning.  We settled down on Jackson Flat which has grills so we got some hot dogs to grill, invited our good friend Jim Beam, and made a big fire for the first time since we began. It was a great night. We had the entire peak to ourselves and enjoyed a lovely view, dinner and some drinks. A great end to the day.  We may even hang around here late tomorrow since it’s so nice and we literally have no agenda and nowhere we need to be. Living on the fly is treating us well 💞

 

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Campsite with view and fire

Day 29 Miles 356 – 369.4 April 11, 2017

(Lacy)

Today was a hard day on trail.  We began at 8am and continued to go straight up almost the entire day. We were lower on water than we should have been, knowing there wasn’t any source for the next 13 miles until we reached Wrightwood. The combination of rationing our water and the continued uphill made the miles harder. We kept pushing because we wanted to get done before the heat of the day. Turns out none of that mattered because 3.5 miles before we arrived at the road to hitch a ride, we hit a lot of snow on the north face of the mountain.  This was more than we have ever encountered. It was very icy too. It took us over 2 hours to do those miles when it could have easily been done in 1. We both fell twice and slid down the mountainside in the snow.  It’s a little scary and we agreed that we are not going to do that again without snow gear. The first time I fell, I saw myself going towards a tree as I slid down so I stuck out my heel and caught myself before I slid further. Or nailed it on the tree.  Rob and I both managed to loose our footing on different areas and fall at the same time then.

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Even a hard day is still wonderful when you have views of layers and layers of mountains like these ❤️

By the time we got to the end of the trail for the day we were both exhausted mentally and physically. It was one of our most taxing days because of the lack of water and then the intensity of going through the snow.  Thankfully for us we knew we were heading straight for food…oh yes, more  food!

All we had eaten by 3:15 was a power bar each and some beef jerky. We hitched another ride into town in the back of a pickup and went straight to Mexico Lindo. We ran back into Galpal, Woodrat and Rockdoc who were enjoying the 5 cent margarita you can get at this place on Tuesdays with the purchase of food.  They were really good and so were the fajitas. Great spot.

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With full bellies, we walked the short distance to the trail angels house where we had arranged to stay. Wrightwood is pretty small so the 7 minute walk took us by the grocery store, hardware store (where we plan on going tomorrow to sign the trail register and get a PCT pin😊)  and post office. That’s everything we need right there.

This is the first time that we have stayed with a trail angel and we were so pleased we did. Rich, who hosted us, could not have been more generous and kind. Just genuinely a nice guy. He has opened his home to hikers this year and last and hopes to hike some of the trail next year. I hope that we will still be in touch and can join him. After an enjoyable evening chatting over some cake Rob and I brought, we all crashed. It was nice to snuggle up in a bed tonight.

Day 28 Miles 342 – 356 +1 April 10, 2017

(Lacy) I thought today was BEAUTIFUL and have lots of photos to share 😊)

(Rob)

The Best Western served up a decent breakfast to get us started in the morning. I don’t think I’ve eaten so much food in a 24 hour period that I can remember but I’m still losing weight overall. We got rolling into the day’s hike a little later than normal with the first leg taking us under the I-15 freeway and through several Freight Train crossings and another tunnel.

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We went up and over several big sandy hills before starting the big climb of the day. We started up at about mile 3 and never had a step down. We would gain 4000 ft of the 7000 ft to Wrightwood before the day was over. At the base of the mountain there was a Hiker Register Book in a steel box.

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Hiker registry

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Hiker registry inside

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On water cache – good info!

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Water cache! Yes!

We signed in and noticed several familiar names that we knew.  There were 3 names in front of us on the register that we met on Day 2 who were now 10 days ahead of us. With the exception of those 2 guys n 3 girls we are near the front of our start date grouping. Several of our hiker friends and acquaintances have fallen back or dropped out all together. We spent a few miles, 351-354, going through a very recent fire zone. Lots of soot. Too much to even walk 30-40 ft behind someone and not breathe it in. Heartbreaking for me to see the land so stripped of life but also dangerous. The soot itself and the fact that even little rains had washed so much sand and gravel tailings across steep parts of the trail that we were slipping and sliding across the trail with several hundred feet of nothing on one side of us if we made a misstep. In camp I also compromised our water situation by knocking over our stove full of rehydrated meat and dirty rice while it was cooking. More than 1/2 our dinner now lay on the ground but I’d also wasted valuable water. We were both carrying 9 lbs of water which was going to barely make it the two days before we reached Wrightwood. We would start the morning in heavy water ration mode. As we went to sleep we saw the lights of the LA Basin for the first time…still many, many miles away.

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A “flat enough” spot to make camp

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Nearly a full moon

 

 

 

Day 27 Miles 332 – 342 April 9, 2017

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The view from our campsite last night of Silverlake

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Rob’s hair is getting long and crazy💜

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Sunday brunch at Del Taco on the side of the highway!

It was great to lose track of the days this week. Our juice pack for the phones wasn’t charging all the way and it made us disconnect more which was appreciated. We enjoyed our little camping spot last night but it was chilly. Kept me up a little. First thing this morning we both had FOOD on the mind.

Alright, my stepmom thinks I am always talking about food which honestly I am, whether on this hike or not. I loooove to eat. Rob is a huge foodie and amazing professionally chef (though that is not what he did for a career). Collectively, we are very into food, but for these past nearly 4 weeks tasty food is not a priority.  We eat very simply and in a purely functional way almost every day…so when we get into town and can have even hot fast food that we don’t have to make ourselves after hiking anywhere up to 19.5 miles that day (our longest so far), it’s EVERYTHING. Plus, simply, we are just hungry. 😉

We hiked just under 10 miles in the morning to get to our destination: Del Taco at the intersection of hwys 138 and 15. The trail comes within .9 miles. There is a McDonald’s closer, but wanted burritos! The scenery continued to be stunning with desert mountain and snow vistas. We saw a couple new flowers as well. We ran into a group of three girls that started at the southern terminus five days after us, but have taken no zero days and are on the move. Woodrat, Galpal and Rockdoc were nice to speak to and said they are saying at the Best Western near the Del Taco tonight. We had planned to just eat, resupply for a day and a half to get to Wrightwood and then hike another few miles to camp for the evening. All that changed though about 4p when Rob started dropping major hints that he wanted to stay in the hotel for the night and clean up. I really wanted to go out and continue camping and not be locked inside 4 walls. I love being in our tent under the full moon and snuggled in my sleeping bag, but I acquiesced and we got a room. We did laundry, watched a bad movie, accidentally flipped on the news and saw what is going on with Syria!, ate more Del Taco for dinner and went to bed late. We have a big elevation gain of 5k feet before we get to Wrightwood and no water along the way so our packs will be heavy of water. Our enjoyable stroll the past week from Big Bear seems to be officially over, but we know we are up to the challenge.

Day 26 Miles 318 – 332 April 8, 2017

(Rob)

We started again in the burn area with more of Lacy’s variegated Lily flowers everywhere and climbed up to the rim of Silverlake Reservoir. What a different perspective that topping a crest makes. We had about 4-5 miles of a beautiful lake by our side for the day. After lunch we climbed more up for 3 miles and found the cutest, smallest, tightest, tiniest flat spot for the tent 1 inch off the trail and on the side of the mountain. We fixed some hot apple cider, a terrible freeze dried dinner, read some and were out early. There are some big freight trains that cross through the valley below and beyond us that let us listen to the distant horns every few minutes through the night. Maybe I missed some of the white noise of the city because it was great to hear as I woke up a time or two in the night because it put me right back to sleep.6174613376_IMG_03886174613376_IMG_03896174613376_IMG_03916174613376_IMG_03946174613376_IMG_0401

Day 25 Miles 298.5 – 318 April 7, 2016

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19.5 for the day (3rd time but still haven’t done 20 yet)
Followed the Mojave River all day from 200 ft above all through the canyon it created a long time ago. We had a very cold river crossing up over Lacy’s knees and hiking skirt as we crossed the river for the last time of the day. We also passed by our first Naturalist (naked) hiker and met Coppertone who was working hard in the sun on trail maintenance with nothing but a flat shovel and hedge trimmers. True PCT’er from 06 who personally had adopted a few miles of trail as his to keep safe for the rest of us. Ended a long day in Grassy Canyon near a stream but it was in a burn area and nothing like we hiked in all day. Lacy nick named these flowers that come up in previous burn areas Lily Flowers. They are variegated from green to yellow, red, pink and orange leaves with tiny white flowers in the middle of their little Lilly Pad leaf. So odd that they are the first flowers to spread into such a desolate area of burned trees and they look like they should be in a Monet painting vs the desert.