Rob: The food here in Indonesia represents many of our favorite world tastes. We constantly crave this little group and are always looking out for the best local preparations of each.

Sambal is the chili based condiment that can range from spicy to super spicy. It is usually ground in a mortar with chilis, shallots, ginger, salt and a little fish sauce as the base and then varies by the village or family recipe of the maker. As a non-local we often have to ask for it as it can be too much spice for casual tourists, but when we and other travelers speak Bahasa and look a little rough and dirty from backpacking or the motorbike, we get the good stuff right away.

Babi Guling is roast suckling pig and it is to-die-for here. Babi Nasi will be the way it is served in tourist restaurants which has a generous serving of sweet roasted meat and rice. Really is it best served mixed or Campur (chomp-pour) style in a local warung. When you ask for Babi Campur with Nasi & Soto, you will get a banana leaf over a plate with rice, a small portion of sliced sweet meat, shredded meat mixed with green chilies, dried liver chips, blood sausage, offal sausage, lacquered skin, fried skin rinds and a Soto, bone broth soup. Wash it all down with a cold Bintang and look for a shady place to rest and rub your belly!

Sate is common and found everywhere but some of our best finds have been when we spot a particular type of grill being used. They are shallow, long and narrow. Just wide enough to lay the sate sticks across and barely deep enough to hold the charcoal made from coconut husks. Kambing (Goat) may be our favorite since it is typically only found out in the countryside where goats are raised or near markets where they are sold / traded. Sapi is beef and not seen as often. Ayam (Chicken) is everywhere because chickens themselves are everywhere. I’m always dodging them with the motorbike hoping I don’t need to pay a family if I don’t thread the needle just right. We tell a lot of “Why did the Chicken cross the road?” jokes and Gizmo has a favorite song “Ayam Superman” channeled from Michael Stipes. Oh yeah, back to the sate. Chilis are ground with peanuts and oil to dip your sate in and you can make it a meal with Nasi and Soto if you like. Every now and then you find it served with rice steamed inside a woven banana leaf box or tube so it cooks under pressure and forms a starchy rich nutty herbal tasting base for your sate, peanut sauce and lots of local sambal.

Nasi Jingo is found on the Balinese islands and not to much afar from here in other areas. It is a cheap, quick snack bound up in a banana leaf and traditionally made for and eaten by workers at the beginning or end of their shift. Markets, ports and major intersections are where little temporary stands pop up in the mornings and evenings. 90% rice and 10% simple but savory additions from the area. If you are near a port or fishing village it is usually spicy shredded Ikan (Fish), sometimes with salty sun dried sardines. Near a market? Sapi, Ayam or Babi shredded with cabbage and other veggies. Always with good sambal to bring those tears of spice and joy to our faces.

Our eye will usually catch a sign for Masakan Padang when we see it flash by on the bike. This is a whole style of food from the West Coast of Sumatra, but known all over Indonesia. It is based on coconut milk curry. The Warungs display many dishes in an artistic window stacked like a tiered house of cards or a carnival game. Several different preparations of fish, chicken and beef usually are at the top. Then egg “omelette” and different vegetables and fritters on the middle layer. In a steam table base layer there will be beautiful steamed jasmine rice, curry sauces from mild to wild, steamed greens and various sambals or just a straight chopped chili shallot mix to add to your plate. You call out what you like, point if you don’t know the name and let the chef guide you through the fresh favorites. So effing good that we always seem to over eat when we find a great place to sit for a full Masakan Padang meal.

 

Bakso is another one of our faves that you will see everywhere in Indonesia. It mainly comes from small carts along the popular roadside areas but you will also see plenty of mobil Bakso motorcycles as well. I’ve even seen a Bakso sidecar that I thought was pretty cool. The best Bakso Ayam is a rich chicken broth with a couple types of noodles floating in it. The Ayam part is chicken meat balls. I use the word meat a little loosely because anything that is not a beak or feet can be made into a paste, formed into a light fluffy ball and poached in the broth. Most are a mix of cartilage, skin and meat whipped into light fluffy meatballs that have a concentrated chicken taste. Add hard boiled egg if you like, a pinch of fresh herbs, maybe fried chicken skin or fried flat noodles on top then as much sambal as you dare. Savory spicy chicken goodness for usually about a dollar a serving. Lacy and I can always tell when the other person reached the bottom of their bowl by the pleasure and pain look on their face. You see, the chili seeds sink to the bottom of the dish and the last two slurps you drink directly from the bowl are the fire that burns so very good.

One item that we weren’t  able to secure this last trip is my favorite flavor of pure Indonesian firewater. Arak is the moonshine here. It can range from about 80 proof up to nearly pure alcohol. In fact last year a lady selling it to me proudly poured a capful on the counter and lit it on fire to show its potency. On Bali and it’s neighboring islands, you really have to be a local to buy it. We have been in much more remote areas where it was proudly displayed on the countertop at the all the local bodegas. There is a cloudy variety which is low quality and about $1 for a small plastic water bottle and up to $2.50 for the clear high octane version which we always bought hoping it was good enough to not make us go blind. But in areas like we have been so far, the word has obviously spread. DON’T sell to tourists. I had one conversation with a older lady running a little family bodega where I just knew she had it hidden. I used my best Bahasa and asked for “satu Arak kecil”, a “small bottle of Arak.” I had my 20,000 rupee bill already out and extended to her. She stared at me for about the full breath I was holding and then shook her head. I said as politely as I could “bagus?” or “good?” with a little confident please in my voice. She stared again for about twice as long and then simply turned around and walked away from her little store and back to sweeping as she was when I pulled up. Thwarted again. The owner of the Homestay asked us when we got home later if we were able to get what we wanted. My reply almost made him fall over laughing from the ladder he was on when I said that they just won’t sell to a Bule (white foreigner).

This visit to Nusa Penida has us also enamored with a beach bar cheekily named Penida Colada. We had stopped into a few other beach bars and found them to be nice spots to take a photo, but not always the best drinks or value and full of day-tripping tourists. Penida Colada was a little away from the main hotels and port on a little dead end alley road that ran along the beach. This was not on the Instagram tour. But it was clean comfortable and had beach chairs, beach bean bags, floor seating and lounge tables mixed into dining tables under several low thatch roofed pagodas tightly knit together with a solo guitarist in the corner. The sunset mixed with candle light, giggling girls, boisterous surfer boys and kissing couples created a perfect atmosphere. Drinks. Yes. The drinks were what I wanted to write about. Lacy and I are big fans of craft cocktails from Prohibition to Tiki style. The cocktails at Penida Colada were twists on classics with local additions that truly elevated each drink. Hibiscus flowers were macerated into a Planters Punch to give it a beautiful aroma to go along with the tropical flavors. Lemongrass was muddled into a Mojito and became even more refreshing. Purple Dragonfruit was blended with lime and rum into an amazing rich tasting Daiquiri. Honestly I have a really hard time choosing between a non-alcohol dragonfruit smoothie that is made with sweetened condensed milk or the rum Daiquiri version. Then there is my new favorite twisted blender drink of all time! A Pina Colada but not just any old overly sweet coconut rum and pineapple frozen drink. This one uses fresh unsweet coconut milk from a coconut that likely fell on the roof of the place, small super sweet pineapples from across the street, rum and the secret ingredient, Pandan Juice. Not the fruit of the Pandan tree but the sticky green syrupy extract from the thin palm like leaves. First it makes the Colada a beautiful light pale green color. Best if all, it is a perfect twist and compliment to your standard Colada by adding a honey fructose herbal taste that I’ve never had before. Winner all the way around. Happy Hour here means that you can get 2 tall frozen ones for 80,000 Rupees or about $2.57 each. Satu Lagi (one more)!

Side note. No. We don’t get paid for the blog for anywhere we endorse or encourage you to visit. We just want you to go!! But… If anyone has a contact in the Bintang Beer Marketing Department, we might consider them because it would surely offset our Beer and Radler bill a little. 🙂

Teaser alert…

 

Returning to the island of Bali from Nusa Penida was logistically easy albeit a little bittersweet as we had such a great time on the tiny island. The eight days and nights we spent there were magical and I would return in a heartbeat and stay at the exact same Homestay. Enveloped by the constant sound of the sea, we bid the island farewell and hopped aboard the fast boat that would ferry us across the Bali Sea. As soon as we retrieved our backpacks from the boat we sat down to second breakfast of Nasi Jingo on the beach. We booked a room for our last night in Indonesia at the same hotel we spent our first evening so that we could leave our large backpacks with them; thereby, having a much lighter load for the following week. With just our tiny daypack we conveniently had our new Yamaha 155cc bike (the Yamahopper) delivered to the hotel, packed a few things under the seat and took off towards Ubud. It is HOT in South Bali. And Ubud is scorching in the middle of the day. We had over an hour ride to the center of Ubud during which I was excitedly making up silly songs on the bike and singing them to Rob. Our first stop was lunch at a Babi Guling warung we frequented last year.

It was delicious, but so much food and between the heat and the full bellies I began to fade fast. I felt like I wanted to immediately lie down and sleep, but we still needed to find a hotel. Looking for something under $20, I told Rob I was barely holding on and was moments away from laying on the sidewalk from pure exhaustion. The hot ride on the Yamahopper had zapped all my energy. He knows this look. It’s not our first time dealing with extreme temperatures together and he lovingly took the reigns and got us settled into a hotel with AC and a pool before I had a complete meltdown on the streets of Bali. Teammates. That’s how we began referring to ourselves when we hiked 800 miles on the Pacific Crest Trail together in 2017 and it has stuck. When one is down the other pulls the slack.

I experienced a bit of whiplash from the change of quiet beach life in Nusa Penida to the hustle and bustle of traffic, infinite stores and restaurants geared towards tourists and masses of people in Ubud. Given that, the following day we opted to take a long ride northeast to the Balinese Mother Temple we didn’t have a chance to visit last year. We both drank plenty of water to avoid ‘overheating’ again and hit the road. Since it’s all about the journey just as much as the destination, I opened google maps and took us off the main roads and north through local villages. These areas are incredibly peaceful and beautiful. Infinite family and village temples around each bend highlight the high level of Balinese artistry and craftsmanship. It’s not necessary to be in Ubud or Kuta or any of the other main tourist destinations to experience how naturally beautiful Bali is. It’s pervasive everywhere you turn. Hibiscus, wild orchids, coconut palms, bougainvillea, lush vegetation, manicured rice paddies and so much more follow you wherever you may wander. It’s impossible not to fall in love with this island.

As we traveled to the temple off the beaten path we waved to all the kids on the street, returned high fives, dodged a few chickens and eventually arrived Besakih Temple. We were both craving a bit more cultural knowledge to fill in some gaps and we paired up with Ketut, a volunteer, at the temple entrance. He spoke English and made our visit to this holy place something we will always hold dear. Ketut explained that we were visiting on a special day and that evening would commence the New Moon ceremony when families would flock to the temple to pray. Before entering the temple we purchased offerings and Ketut said that he would take us to the very top of the temple, 1,000 meters above sea level, where we could pray and mediate together. Nearly 1,300 years old, the oldest on the entire island, the temple is a magnificent piece of architecture. As we climbed the steps to the top Rob and I asked many questions and Ketut explained the meaning behind the different colors of umbrellas (representing the natural elements of wind, water and fire), the black and white checkered cloth used to wrap holy trees and statues (symbolizing yin and yang), why temples have different heights (family and villages temples vs those that are larger) and so much more. We were trying to learn as much as possible. At the very top we removed our shoes and Ketut lead us through the traditional prayer ceremony using the flowers and incense we had. We meditated shortly before winding our way back down the steps, taking a few photos and showing our gratitude to Ketut.

After two days in Ubud we were ready to get back to the sea. Having missed the west coast of the island last year that was our new target for the day. Not knowing where we would spend was nice since we could explore the relaxed surfer side of the island and pick a spot that called out to us. When we need a break from crowds traveling we often gravitate towards surfer areas though neither one of us currently surf. Rob surfed in California as a kid and I have zero experience but love the vibe.  Balian Beach was a score for the first night back in the coast. We slept with the doors to our room open so we could hear the pounding surf nearby.  The following  morning we enjoyed the waves and breakfast before exploring further north to find a place that suited us.  We made a pit stop at Medewi Surf Beach and watched the cows walk the beach before we discovered an amazing little hotel, Bali Taman Sari, tucked inside a local village and 50 meters from a near deserted black sand beach.  Being so quiet and local with the sound of the waves floating around us as we swam in the pool outside our room, we kept extending our stay there another night.  We spent theee days enjoying walks on the beach, delicious meals on the side of the road and sunset cruises in the hills.  This is why we don’t plan our trips out and choose to just see where the wind blows us.  We found serenity and perfection on Bali’s Northwest Coast exactly when we needed it.

 

Rob: There is a place in California called Black Sand Beach, on the Lost Coast Trail, where Lacy and I absolutely love the feeling and sensation of being because it has a certain combination of adventure, privacy and spirituality to it. The black sand beach that we found on the upper west coast of Bali in Indonesia is another one of those types of places. The beach spreads out for several kilometers in each direction from where we are staying. We have it all to ourselves with the exception of a local fishermen or two, thousands of sand crabs, two well fed cows who munch on the coastal grass and loads of morning glory vines that line the beach. The surf rolls in steady and consistently. With the new moon, the tide makes a huge swing here on the equator from splashing up to the stone barriers that protect the palm groves and all the way back out almost 200 meters revealing the finest black sand. The super, super fine volcanic beach is far closer to powder then sand. It has so much mica in it that it sparkles in the sun.

There is a strong steady breeze coming off the ocean which feels great because it is keeping the air dry and cool. Well, much drier than in the jungle anyway. The shade of the big Date Palms, Cempaka and Mangrove trees that we set up underneath today is just enough to keep most of the sun filtered and keep us in just enough shade so as to not warm up my cold Bintang Lacy brought down from the bar.

And then there is Sate Babi.  I dream of Sate Babi.  I get the smell of grilling Babi in my nose and I can’t think of anything else in the world. We came back toward our awesome little beach hotel from a great ride up into the jungle this afternoon. The sign was in black and white, hand painted of course and about the size of a small yard front real estate sign. The Koki or Chef was hand fanning the coals to give a customers order the final touch. Coconut husk charcoal gets red hot fast and has a nutty aroma. It burns at its peak with very little ash so you can virtually put the skewers of meat right on the coals if you like. There is no grate on Sate grills anyway. One skewer is about 6 inches or 15 cm long. For other meats it holds as much as you care to put on it at once. Babi is special and tradition holds that you get one bubblegum sized cube of about 90% meat and 10% fat and another with the ratio flipped around. Tonight ours was served with Lontong, my favorite rice cooked in woven banana leaf boxes under pressure and served in a pool of spicy sambol on a sheet of brown paper.  No silverware, sitting on a bamboo mat with a low table in front of you.  Slide the meat from the skewer, take a pinch of the rice block with your right hand, drag it through the sambol, make sure you add one cube of still smoking meat and one cube of smoldering fat and pop it into your mouth discreetly licking the sambol from your fingers as you go. I don’t think Lacy and I spoke much during our meal but we did grunt, smack our lips, nod our heads simultaneously and smile a lot.  When we were finished we thanked the Chef. I could have hugged him, really. We left as many of the locals began to line up for their turn knowing we would probably be back again tomorrow on our way out of the village.

Lacy: The last three days here in Pekutatan, nestled between the surf beaches of Balian and Medewi have been splendid.  At $30 a night it is a little more than we typically look to spend, but worth every penny. Breakfast and drinking water (as tourists, drinking anything other than filtered water is a sure fire way to screw your stomach up) is a nice bonus. The quiet local scene pulled us in and spit us out just in time to move on to India.  We see that they have two large villas here each with a beautiful living room, kitchen and bedroom. Surrounded by their own privacy wall all of the rooms have large glass walls that open to a private pool and lawn.  We noted it as a possibility for another time. That would be a real treat!  And we would be able to shop in the local markets and cook as we love to do.  For our final night here we returned to the beloved sate babi chef Rob mentioned, got our food to go and sat on the beach enjoying it while we watched the kids race their scooters up and down the black sand as the sunset.  A perfect romantic evening together.

We said ‘Sampai nanti’ or ‘See you later’ to Indonesia as we walked into the airport to begin our day of travel to New Delhi.  The two weeks here felt longer, but also went by very quickly.  We already have plans to explore different parts of the country when we return next we are hoping that we can share our love of this place with more people.  Thanks for following along our travels thus far.  It’s about to get even more interesting…

Lacy: Nusa Penida was everything we needed and then some.  When planning for this year’s travels we decided on riding two-up through the North Indian Himalayas as the snow melts and the roads open in May/June. This will not be easy. It will test our limits of physical and mental strength while traveling in India on a motorbike on difficult roads with snowmelt and snow.   Add to that the fact that we don’t have the same comfort level there as we do here in Indonesia where we are familiar with the culture, language, cost of items and day to day life. We are basically jumping into the deep end head first and hoping we can swim. This is exactly why we wanted some relaxing time on the beach to start the summer. As soon as the idea of returning to Indonesia surface we both said it felt right and things began to fall into place. Indonesia is easily one of our favorite places in the world. Whether you are in Bali, Sumbawa, Flores or any of the other beautiful islands the people here are what make this country so attractive.  As you ride your motorcycle down the road strangers will smile and wave at you, kids hold up their palms for a high five and locals always try to lend a helping hand if you need it. Kindness overflows. Sometimes, as an American, it can seem a little much as people you met just five minutes earlier want to invite you to drink coffee in their home. Hospitality abounds. When you forge a connection, these are friendships you can keep for a lifetime. Rob and I remain friends with Moharba, someone we met while staying in North Bali last year.

 

There are moments when you lay on the beach and think you must be dreaming. The water is so clear that you can see the fish swimming below, Bali Starlings fly overhead and the smell of sate grilling over red hot coals wafts through the air. Bali Starlings are an endangered bird and are absolutely stunning with a white body and bright blue “eyeshadow.” Nusa Penida is actually a conservation island for this bird and several others that are near extinction. They fly freely around the island and you will not see them like this on Bali. It’s really special. We also joke that this bird is Gizmo’s girlfriend. As Rob and I took a scooter cruise through the hills of this island one evening he remarked that it would be a great area for us to buy a plot of land. I know he daydreams of moving here just as much as I do. Not because it’s easy to live here, but because it’s simple. Simplicity is what we have geared our lives toward over the last three years. We went from lucrative corporate jobs, a fancy downtown high rise condo in Dallas, luxury cars, expensive dinners, vacations and clothes to living out of backpacks, alternating between the same two outfits and spending a couple bucks on food all day while enjoying the best street food around. Selling everything and stripping ourselves down of possessions was true freedom. Freedom to make any possibility a reality because we have less commitments to “things.”  Less to get in order when we want to move to the next place: travel insurance, plane ticket, find a place to park our car for an indeterminate amount of time (thanks dad!) and go!

We played “National Geographic photographer” on the bike one day. I adjusted my shutter speed to high on my nice camera and clicked away on the back of the Scoopy as we took in the sights. As we would speed up or go around a bend I squeezed my knees tighter around Rob’s waist to hold on. I’m no professional, but we had fun and I got a good shot or two. This one included.

I have been admittedly soaking up the completely relaxed feeling I have on this island before heading to India.  The snorkel trip was possibly the most stress I experienced since we wound up “hunting” for manta rays. By hunting I mean the boat would whip around to a spot where mantas were active and we would all jump off to catch a glimpse, then jump back on, go to another spot and repeat hoping to see them again. I caught a ten second glimpse of one huge manta ray. This was stressful! Ha! The remaining three spots were far more relaxed as we took the Go Pro out for its maiden voyage and captured photos of fish and even a massive octopus!  Snorkeling in front of our bungalows I saw bright blue starfish like I had seen on Kenawa.   

Rob and I enjoyed Nusa Penida sunsets while having “family meetings.”  These moments, usually short, are when we carve out a specific time to make decisions. A few travel decisions later we were at Penida Colada (by far the best beach bar we found on the island) sipping on amazing cocktails with local flavor. Dragonfruit, pandan, lemongrass, rosella (dried hibiscus flowers – I bought some to bring home) were all locally sourced to put a smile on this man’s face….

I left this island feeling incredibly grateful to be back here, in Indonesia, and wanting to experience more of this country.  I hope when we return to Nusa Penida next Rob’s leg will be fully healed and we can climb to a few beaches that we skipped this time around. Hopefully, the island will retain the simple tropical vibe it has now and won’t be swarming with tourists and minivans. I have a dream of coming back to Indonesia with friends and family so that I can share why we love this place so much 💙

From Indonesia with love 💗

Rob: Nusa Penida or Penida Island, is the third island SE of Bali in Indonesia.  This and the neighboring islands of Lembongan and Ceningan are the most similar to Bali in culture as compared to the rest of the 17,000 Indonesian Isles. This means that the architecture, dress and food follow along with the predominantly Balinese traditions and religion vs the majority Muslim population in most other areas here. It’s not that I prefer one to another. Just the opposite actually as Lacy and I both take the time to appreciate any culture we immerse ourselves within. I do want to be sure that people who read this don’t automatically assume Indonesia is just one or the other. There are as many cultural twists in the road here as there are, well… twists in the roads. Around any corner you could find something familiar or never seen previously. I can say that we have enjoyed 10-12 cultural regions and that’s only because we are rookies and can only discern certain changes.

Was this Bali 30 years ago like some say? Probably not. It’s more raw and will transition to a beach, scuba and entertainment place more so than a beautiful and spiritual epicenter of Balinese culture like the town of Ubud on Bali.

But, Nusa Penida is also becoming more popular as a tourist destination very quickly.  You can see the telltales and hear what the locals will also divulge. The roads near the 2 port areas are well paved but just not quite wide enough for 2 small cars to pass. One small car and a motorbike are really the limit anywhere on the island. The roads in the north are extremely rough and basically widened paths shaped by new traffic. There are no big name resorts or restaurants here yet but they can’t be far behind.  Lembongan island is already full of them   Ports barely have jetties as you still board boats directly from the sandy beach, sandals in hand. 90% of the cars here are brand new micro vans brought in to ferry the new tourist class around to the sights and back out to their Day Trip Boats. Construction is popping up along the coast. Thankfully they can only build so much so fast so please visit before there is a pier for larger boats.

 

When you come, stay in the more local areas and patronize the families who have built little guest cottages that are far nicer than the homes they, themselves, live in. Find Warungs or places to eat and have a beer where you are in a family owned place and you will be rewarded with the biggest smiles, best food and lowest prices.  Wing it once you are here. Rent a small motorbike or scooter and go exploring off the beaten path.  Lacy found a local snorkel tour boat for 1/4 the cost of others that took the time to make sure we swam in 4 distinctly different experiences and then fed us a great lunch afterwards. The beach in front of our little guesthouse still has more local kids playing in the surf naked than tourists and I’d rather listen to kids laughing, our friendly neighborhood Rooster and his harem and the surf than car horns, wranglers and people jousting with selfie sticks.

My basic and Lacy’s more advanced Bahasa language skills also help us immensely, save us money at every turn and aid in connecting with people here who may know some English phrases but are too shy to really engage with you until they realize you both know more than just pleasantries in the others native tongue.

Once you are off the main roads in most developing countries and especially here, you will come to a crossroads inside your heart and soul. The line between a newly developing area and abject poverty is sometimes just 20 meters apart.  Trash piles become playgrounds for children while some comb through looking for anything of use, value, recyclable or food discarded unfit for a tourist but acceptable to others.  Two days ago when we came out a “locals” entrance / exit from a Temple versus the tourist exit, we noticed a group of small local children playing with balls made from plastic bags made somewhat spherical with recovered packing tape.  Today we searched the markets nearby for a proper soccer / European football. We finally found one that wasn’t too expensive, that they might sell for $, but good enough to last and be the ball they kept and played with daily. We went back to the rear of the Temple area and were lucky to find the boy I recognized as well as his Mother.  After a tiny bit of prompting Yoga accepted his real leather, bright orange ball with a big smile. His Mother, Sari, asked if we were doing any shopping especially for sarongs. Actually that was the next to-do in our thoughts for the day. Her Mother-in-Law retrieved several very fine examples of hand loomed sarongs made on the island. They are all so beautiful it was hard to pick just 2.  They are the best quality available and the patterns are recognizable as those made here. The edges remained unfinished to prove they were genuinely hand made quality versus something more like a machine made fabric.  After a small negotiation, everyone was all smiles and we know we had made the right choice buying them from this little family.  When we return someday, I hope we can find them all again.

Lacy: After a full day on what we have affectionately begun to refer to as the “club foot” or “clubby” (due to the swelling caused by Rob’s healing broken leg) a relaxing day on Nusa Penida island was in order. Many tourists travel the short distance to this island on a one or two day excursion from Bali, see the highlights and leave. Rob and I prefer to travel differently, to take the time to really soak in a place and not rush through doing the “Chevy Chase” at each major location. Currently, with the limitations of club foot we are alternating days exploring with those spent face down on a massage table or lounging on the beach. Believe me, no one is complaining. After finishing our preferred breakfast of fruit and Balinese coffee seaside at our place we strolled through the sand to another beachfront location where even stronger coffee and dragonfruit smoothies were had.

Several hours of hanging out, enjoying our beverages and playing cards left us wondering what to do next. We decided to check out Avocado massage just a short distance down the road on the Scoopy we are renting for the equivalent of $5.50 per day. What a great decision. For $17 each we had a 2 hour experience on the sea complete with Balinese long stroke massages, body scrubs and avocado body masks. So incredibly relaxing to feel the breeze and hear the waves during it all. I make avocado hair and face masks at home and Rob finally tried one here on Nusa Penida. Probably better that way anyway! It was after 2 by the time we finished our spa at the sea and we were starving. Having eaten at the places on the beach for convenience the past few nights we were dying to eat in the local area and consume spicier and more authentic meals. We noted a Masakan Padang warung earlier and were heading straight there to fill our bellies. Masakan Padang is a style of Indonesian food specific to West Sumatra island, but revered all over.

As you all know we have the infamous Giz on all of our travels. He came into our lives almost 5 years ago as a prize at the Texas State Fair and what a prize he is. He entered our hearts and became part of our tiny family. That afternoon, I noticed a couple on the beach in front of our room taking photos with a little bear. When they saw me watching, Lopa was quick to tell me that Chhutkulu is her son. I knew right then and there we needed to talk. Yes, I’m crazy with Gizmo, but if you can’t be a little nuts in life than what fun is living?! Chhutkulu and Giz became instant friends. When I went back into our bungalow Rob said he could hear Lopa and I giggling away like little girls and I excitedly recounted how Giz and I made new friends. Still being pretty full, but not wanting to miss an opportunity to eat another delicious meal we hopped on the Scoopy and shared a plate of Babi Guling for dinner. Babi Guling is a suckling pig dish that you won’t find in most of Indonesia as the country is predominately Muslim. It is very common on Balinese islands and one of Rob’s absolute favorite. Curled up with our books and listening to the waves in bed, we slept peacefully that night stuffed with Indonesian delicacies and knowing we had just extended our stay on the island for another three nights.

Having rested yesterday, today was all about seeing a new part of the island. We requested our fruit and coffee early, packed our backpack and set off Southeast. I had already told Rob I wanted to stop at a streetside location for another cup of coffee on the way so we were keeping our eyes peeled. Our first stop didn’t yield coffee, but the result was even better! I watched the woman at the stall grind spices and other items with her mortar and pestal, add a few unknown items and then package it before handing it to someone who rode off on their scooter. I had no idea what she was making, but I wanted it! In Indonesian, I asked what she made and she responded Gado Gado. I knew I had heard of this dish, but couldn’t remember exactly what it is, but nonetheless I said I would take one anyway. I make it my business to not know what I am eating at least half the time. We communicated in Indonesian and when the conversation became too advanced for me we switched to broken English. I love learning the language when we travel and thankfully Bahasa (the common language among the 17,000 islands and thousands of dialects in this country) came back to me quickly from what I had learned last year. I grabbed our freshly prepared package that cost less than $1 with a massive smile and got back on the Scoopy. A few minutes later it started to rain and we ducked under the awning of a shop on the side of the road. Waiting out the rain, we got coffee (.35 cent each) which tasted even better accompanied by the mouthwatering Gado Gado.

The perfect balance of peanut sauce, spice, rice and vegetables that made Rob’s eyes sparkle. We looked it up and the dish is vegetarian with rice or potatoes and cabbage, beans or other vegetables in a spicy peanut sauce. Our impromptu second breakfast ended just as the rain ceased and we continued our journey to Angel’s Billabong and Broken Beach. We were warned that the road to these two side by side destinations was bad, but you never know just how bad until you’re experiencing it yourself. There was a bit of paved road until the turn off where you could choose to go to Crystal Bay or Billabong and then it was 40+ minutes of rough riding on an unpaved path that was sometimes gravel. Other times sand. All the time bumpy. Rob said his nuts were black and blue from the road. There were several times he asked me to get off the bike so he could make a certain stretch without the extra weight and I walked up to meet him. There were even more times that I voluntarily got off because I was nervous. We have had a few incidents on motorcycles and while I love being on the bike I also love being unharmed. We finally made it to the billabong and could not have been happier to get off the bike.

As we walked towards the Billabong from the parking area there weren’t many people, but within 15 minutes the crowds started pouring in. This is, after all, one of the islands highlights. We hate scenes like this where people pile in and all try to take a photo of the same thing. Thankfully, we had a bit of privacy in the beginning because we had never seen anything like this billabong before. It’s a natural infinity pool that fills up at high tide and overlooks the Bali Sea. You climb down a few rocks at low tide and can swim in it. Nature’s beauty can astound you. This was no exception. The rocks were too uneven for Rob to tackle at this stage so he stayed above and tried to take some photos of me as I enjoyed a swim. The water was so warm. I swam as I watched other tourists pile in, none of which enjoyed a swim and all were concerned with the perfect photo. It killed me that Rob couldn’t climb down because he absolutely loves tide pools and the idea of him swimming in a massive one was all too perfect. Maybe next time.

A five minute walk from the Billabong is Broken Beach which is a gorgeous scenic view, but not a place to swim since there is no access point. Looking down you see clear green and blue water lapping against a white sand beach. A natural land bridge with a hole in it allows the sea to access this strip of coast. Again, a very unique view. Nusa Penida island began receiving a greater number of tourists about 3 years ago and as of now the natural beauty seems to be intact. I desperately hope that the influx of people does not harm its natural treasures.

Leaving Broken Beach and the Billabong we had to retrace our bumpy steps and then some. We wanted to spend the afternoon back at Crystal Bay. The route there was nearly an hour of terrible roads. Rob is amazing on the bike. The only other person I could trust on a bike like this is my dad and I don’t know if he would be crazy enough to try these roads. Especially not in shorts and sandals! By the time we got to Crystal Beach we had earned a beer! Snorkeling, swimming, lunch and lounging helped us pass the rest of the day. Between the sun, water and roads we slept hard that night.

As of this post we have extended our stay on Nusa Penida yet another night with plans to leave on Friday. Sleeping on the sea and jetting around on the Scoopy from one mesmerizing waterfront view to another is hard to walk away from.

Rob (Daddie Gizmo):

To Indonesia

On our first flight. At the beginning of my second movie. It hit me. Our travels have begun again. After a longer Winter season than we anticipated due to my broken leg, we return again to our Modern Gypsy life that we love so dearly. There is another 10 hour plane after this 12 hour flight, a car taxi to a hotel near the port to rest, then a fast boat and finally a second taxi to our beach bungalow on Nusa Penida, an island in a group of 3 off the SE coast of Bali. We will start this year on a sandy beach before we continue back into snowy Himalayan mountains.

Lacy is asleep beside me on our Qatar Airways flight. She has carried both our backpacks and daypack (aka Gizmo’s chariot) all along the way so far. We hoped I’d be further along in my recovery when we booked our flights, but we will make it. Perhaps a little slower than normal at first while I’m still getting my legs under me, but there is so much to come. We finally bought a GoPro. It will film Lacy’s snorkels in Indonesia then get strapped to the handlebars of a Royal Enfield Motorcycle to journey through the highest roads in the Indian Himalayas and Kashmir. This is what we have sketched out thus far. Much appreciation to Hunter Mountain, Scribner’s Catskill Resort and the Glaser Family for making our white winter an amazing experience. Stay tuned. What comes next is guaranteed to be one hell-of-a-ride!

Lacy: Exiting the airport after 20+ hours on two flights, we were wrapped in the familiar balmy weather that is akin to South Bali nights. Midnight struck, ushering in my birthday, as we drove to our hotel for the evening. Hopping out of the cab and gathering our unusually light backpacks, the stars and moon seemed to shine exceptionally bright above us as they welcomed us back to Indonesia. The aromas of incense and flowers surrounding us made us feel as if we had come home. After a Bintang beer toast to a long voyage well done and a second birthday celebrated in Indonesia we were all too happy to lay flat in a bed to sleep.

Having our internal clocks thrown off after crossing at least 12 different time zones from NY to Bali, we didn’t sleep more than 6 hours. By 7am we were showering and all too eager to feel the sunshine. We booked a hotel on the beach in Sanur as we planned to take a fast boat this morning to the neighboring island of Nusa Penida. As we walked from our room through the courtyard gardens of our hotel towards the restaurant on the beach our smiles became wider. Bali is just as lush and beautiful as we remembered. It feels remarkably comforting to be back here, surrounded by cempaka and hibiscus flowers, altars at every turn and the never ending smiles of locals. The continuous sound of the Bali Sea that would become the background to our lives for the upcoming days began as we exited the floral courtyard and approached the buffet on the beach. Piling our plates with Mie Goreng (fried noodles with vegetables) we were deeply satisfied as this is a favorite dish of ours that we have reflected on for the last 7 months since we left Asia. We requested the local sambal (spicy sauce that is added to nearly every dish here) since the one offered on buffet was the “tourist version.” We learned last year that in a touristy place or hotel the local sambal isn’t usually offered since most visitors don’t enjoy spicy food. We love the spice and this is why we typically eat at local joints and not the western restaurants. This morning, however, was divine. With Balinese sambal on the table we enjoyed breakfast and took in the local Sanur scene while discussing how good it feels to back here.

Nusa Penida is a 40 minute fast boat ride from South Bali. We wanted to visit here last year, but simply ran out of time with our Visa and decided to move on to Cambodia. Having spent 7 months in the Catskill Mountains I was itching to be back on the beach and the accommodation we booked does not disappoint. A simple wooden bungalow, one of 3 on the property, 25 feet from the beach at high tide. It sounds like the waves are in bed with us. This is exactly what we wanted – crystal clear water and sunrise views. We easily and naturally adjusted back to sun time when we arrived. Our neighboring rooster wakes up with us as the sun rises. You simply wouldn’t be experiencing Indonesia properly if you didn’t have a rooster nearby. We have named him Rocky. In the late afternoon, when the tide is low, the local kids swim in the sea in front of our room and we both enjoy hearing their laughter as we rest our sun tired bodies before dinner.

We have taken it easy these first few days as Rob is still not up to long walks and hikes as of yet. The day we arrived on Nusa we lounged on the beach in front of our bungalow enjoying cold beers, the magnificent view and the sound of the waves. We didn’t hesitate to walk across the street to the conveniently located spa for our first of what I’m sure will be many $10 60 minute massages. It was the perfect way to end my birthday. Between the jet lag and the massage I was asleep within 30 minutes of returning “home.” The following day we hired a car and driver to take us to Crystal Beach 30 minutes away. It was a no brainer to have a driver for 5 hours for $20. The four hours we spent on the beach passed quickly as the scenery was stunning, the lounge chairs comfortable and the beer cold.

I snorkeled and saw some good fish, but the coral was really bleached. We were so spoiled by the unbelievably colorful coral and fish on Kenawa island last year and that will forever be our benchmark for snorkeling. On day 3, after another breakfast of Balinese coffee, papaya, watermelon and other assorted fruits enjoyed on our patio overlooking the Sea, Rob was feeling confident and ready to ride a scooter. I was thrilled as I love riding on the back and taking in the scenery as the sun and breeze kiss my skin. I grew up always riding with full gear and it wasn’t until riding in tropical Sumbawa last year that I dared get on the bike in sandals, shorts and a tank top. And on somewhat sketchy roads at that. Sorry dad – but it sure does feel good when you’re riding along the beach. With the GoPro strapped to the Scoopy we took off east. Wow, the ride was so beautiful along the coast and through the bright green hills. Last year when we rode a 250cc Versys across 4 islands we often stopped for fresh juices at the stalls along the road. Dragonfruit is always my favorite. In our typical style, we stopped at a magnificent Warung (Indonesian eatery) with pondoks overlooking the sea where the papaya juice hit the spot on a sunny day.

We were beaming. It feels so good to be on another adventure together exploring what the island has to offer. Our destination for the day was Atuh and Diamond Beaches. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves. I have been on many breathtaking beaches and Diamond Beach is in my top 3.

Rob couldn’t make the steep climb down so he enjoyed the view from above as I swam in the inviting waters below. Back at our place we looked through our photos from the day before Rob took off to have another massage while I relaxed on the beach and read. Once the sun went down we walked barefoot down the beach for the second night in a row to dinner. No shoes, no problem. What time is it? Why ask?! We have been constantly surrounded by sand and waves, living in sandals and sunglasses. My whole demeanor has slowed down since we stepped onto the plane in NY and being a beach bum is just right for us both after working all winter.

Our trip is off to a great start. We are already both a couple shades darker after only a few days. We only booked a place for the first 4 nights in Nusa Penida before heading to India on May 10th. We want to give ourselves the opportunity to discover things along the way that will shape our journey. This method was so successful last year, going with the flow and living in the moment, that there was never a desire to stray from it as we planned this year’s travels. The sensation of being in Indonesia is different than last year as we are familiar with the language, “rules” of the road (basically a free for all), food and customs. The initial shock has been replaced by a sense of belonging. It only took until the first day for me to begin throwing out the idea of moving here again, as I did last year. This country is intoxicating.